An Encore

21.09.2013

We decided to take the day to drive to some locations we had particularly enjoyed on our last trip through this region in 2009.  We started with a visit to La Couvertoirade in les Grands Causses of the Massif Central.

The Causses are vast, arid limestone plateaus, alternating with surprisingly green, fertile canyon valleys.  The only sign of life at times is a bird of prey wheeling in the sky, or an isolated stone farm or shepherd's hut.  A good place to head for in the Larzac Causse is the strange, rough-hewn stone village of La Couvertoirade, a fully-enclosed citadel of the Knights Templar in the 12th century.

 

This well-preserved fortified town was owned by the Knights Templar, under orders from the Commandery of Sainte-Eulalie, from the twelfth century. The Templars built the fortress there during the 12th and 13th centuries; its two upper floors have since been removed. Following their dissolution in 1312, the Templars' property in the causses was taken by the Knights of St John of Jerusalem who were responsible for building the curtain wall at La Couvertoirade between 1439 and 1450.

The unpaved streets and medieval houses are an austere reminder of the dark side of the Middle Ages.

The animals were kept on the ground floor and people lived on the upper floor where there was less danger of flooding.  Also, it was in less proximity to the bodily wastes that were simply thrown out on the streets - open sewage.

Things have changed very little since our last visit.  We found the same sleepy little village enacting its medieval days and educating tourists along the way.  If you care to read up about our previous trip you'll find it at: http://two-months-in-france.blogspot.fr/2009/09/la-couvertoirade-27-v-09.html

Like other Larzac villages, the population fell rapidly in the 19th century, to as few as 362 by 1880. Today, it is largely inhabited by craftsmen working with enamel, pottery, weaving and similar crafts.

 

 

This jeweller sold me a necklace in 2009 which I wore a great deal and just loved.  Unfortunately, one of the tiny balls in the circumference fell and I was hoping he would be able to fix it.  He's been there for 22 years and recognized his design right off, but since it had started off in a mold, he didn't think he'd be able to fix it because the soldering would melt the rest of the necklace.  I guess I'll just have to wear it flawed.

 

 

 

Or better yet, wear one of my two new ones!

 

 

Karl especially likes this one and picked it for me because he imagines that the labyrinth that is unveiled is in reference to the Knights Templar treasure that was hidden at the centre of their labyrinth.  Some allude to it as being the Holy Grail.



This one has an artistic rendition of the Templar Cross.

 

Karl stands besides the watering hole for the sheep.

 

 

 

These last four photos have a sad note.  The restaurant we had hoped to eat at, L'Auberge de la Couvertoirade, was not opened because they were in mourning for a friend.  There was a handful of dried flowers on the restaurant doorknob, and a poem someone had written for their friend.  There was also another little saying that said, "Un seul être nous manque et tout est dépeuplé", which roughly translated means "You miss one person and the whole world feels deserted."  I found it all very moving and very touching.  Life and death.  Hand in hand.  Always.

 

We moved on to another restaurant and ate at La Crêperie, enjoying a savory crêpe followed by a sweet crêpe.

 



 

I really think this is what Emélie, our Goddaughter, had in mind last year when she was looking for crêpes.  Instead she ended up with a Galette de sarrasin, which is a thick buckwheat pancake.  It was filled with fish and was so filling, she had no more appetite for a sweet crêpe. 

 

The décor from inside the Crêperie.

 

These fragrant oil burners are shaped like little stoves.

 

 

 

 

 

Our second stop on this trip down memory lane was at St-Guilhem-le-Désert, "entre vignes et garrigues".   Should you wish to read our previous blog on this monastery, please refer to: http://two-months-in-france.blogspot.fr/2009/09/st-guilhem-le-desert-9-v-09.html 

 

 



Within the church is a somber barrel-vaulted central aisle leading to the sunlit central apse.  Only two galleries of the cloisters remain: the rest are in New York, along with carvings from St-Michel-de-Cuxa.

 

Tucked away in the Celette mountains, St-Guilhem-le-Désert is no longer as remote as when Guillaume of Aquitaine retired here as a hermit in the 9th century.  After a lifetime as a soldier, Guillaume received a fragment of the True Cross from Emperor Charlemagne and established a monastery in this ravine above the river Hérault.

 

Its lovely chapels dominate the heights of the village, behind which the carved doorway opens on to a central square.

Once you come out of the Abbey, the town square is filled with restaurants and shops.

 



 

 

 

 

This is the same oak tree that framed the bride from 4 years ago.  I wonder how her life is going, whether she now has children, whether she comes back to this beautiful setting often.  I hope her fairy tale wedding continues with a "happily ever after".

 

 

What better way to end this wonderful day than with dinner at L'Auberge de la Croisade in Cruzy, not too far from Ginestas.

 



 Karl started with a muscat while I had a Kir royale.  The "amuse-bouche" were olives and cheese crackers - homemade of course.

Silky soup made with root vegetables and sprinkled with paprika.

My dinner was like a German "beef rouladen", but made with veal and topped with a bit of foie gras. Carrots, zucchini and mushrooms soaked up the rich red wine sauce.

 Karl had "le carré d'agneau", which were 3 lamb chops, very tender.  There were figs and zucchinis in his sauce.

 

We both enjoyed an aubergine side dish, gratiné.

 

Cute dessert menus.

We shared a dessert platter that had a watermelon and cantaloupe drink, strawberry square, chocolate pie, pineapple treat, lots of whipped cream and a scoop of artisan ice-cream.  Karl topped it all off with his grand café-crème.

 

A bit expensive, but value for money.  The owner recognized us as Canadians immediately and started off by saying, "So, what would my Canadian friends like to order?"  The minute we open our mouths, our origin becomes evident.  May as well have a tattoo on our foreheads!  But I have to say that being a Canadian seems to be welcomed here, and it works to our advantage.