Narbonne: Take 2

26.09.2013


We've been to Narbonne a few times but only to browse the market and drive through the city. This time we wanted to explore the cathedral and the Horreum Museum in depth.  (Good choice of words since the Horreum is below ground, in the depths of the city.)

City Hall

Beautiful architecture.

Loved this rooster sign and the name of the place: Au Coq Hardi.

 

 

Narbonne was once the capital of the largest Roman province in Gaul.  The Capitoline Wolf is a bronze sculpture of a she-wolf suckling twin infants, inspired by the legend of the founding of Rome. According to the legend, when Numitor, grandfather of the twins Romulus and Remus, was overthrown by his brother Amulius, the usurper ordered the twins to be cast into the Tiber River. They were rescued by a she-wolf who cared for them until a herdsman, Faustulus, found and raised them. 

I have a brother whose name is Rémi.

Swan necked door knocker.



We came back to this little Tea House in late afternoon.  It has 2 tables inside and 1 outside and sells all sorts of delicious teas.  Not sure how you can make a living with such little income.  The owner is a former teacher who was interested in American politics, so we had a lively conversation about Obama, the Democrats and the Republicans.

I'm sure you've seen artists who paint their faces and dress in a matching costume, then stand still as a statue until someone offers them a few coins.  This street entertainer was so meticulously made-up that I questioned whether he was real or a statue.  But after contributing to his little basket, he meowed like the cat at his side, opened his treasure box and let me choose a marble or coloured stone.  He then gave me the thumbs-up as I took a final photo.

How delicious to find "Leonidas" in Narbonne, originally from Belgium.  I bought a couple of chocolates to add a special note to the afternoon.  "Il faut s'offrir des petits bonheurs dans la vie." (You must spoil yourself with little happy moments in life.)

Karl eventually finds every fountain or water pump in a city.  I really think he's related to fish.

This store's name reminded me of the books my cousin Sylvie Gobeil has authored.  The 2nd one of her trilogy on our Gobeil ancestry is called, "Les tiroirs secrets de Jeanne".

 

So where did Karl go while I was taking this water feature photo? 

 

 

I see.  He was examining this bike that has ambitions of becoming a car.  I've got to get one of these!

We had lunch at this crêperie called "Le Côté Pub".  Can't say it was particularly memorable.

We took our time to visit the Narbonne Cathedral in detail.  Cathédrale Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur de Narbonne is a former cathedral, and national monument of France. It is dedicated to Saints Justus and Pastor.

It was the seat of the Archbishop of Narbonne until the Archbishopric was merged into the Diocese of Carcassonne in 1801.  The church was declared a basilica minor in 1886.

The building, begun in 1272, is noted for being unfinished.  The choir was finished in 1332, but the rest of the building was never completed, as the result of many factors including sudden changes in the economic status of Narbonne, its unusual size and geographical location (to complete it would have meant demolishing the city wall) and financial constraints.

 

 

These fearsome gargoyles are sure to ward off the devil, and be perfect water spouts.  In architecture, a gargoyle is a carved stone grotesque, usually made of granite, with a spout designed to convey water from a roof and away from the side of a building thereby preventing rainwater from running down masonry walls and eroding the mortar between. Architects often used multiple gargoyles on buildings to divide the flow of rainwater off the roof to minimize the potential damage from a rainstorm. A trough is cut in the back of the gargoyle and rainwater typically exits through the open mouth. Gargoyles are usually an elongated fantastic animal because the length of the gargoyle determines how far water is thrown from the wall.

 

The courtyard adjoining the cathedral.

We didn't hear the organ, but I can imagine what beautiful sounds must echo through this vaulted ceiling.

 

Beautiful tapestries depicting scenes from the Bible or from the lives of saints.

October: month dedicated to the Holy Rosary, a special prayer to Mary, mother of God.

Amazing chandeliers hanging from great heights.

***

 

 

 

The Horreum is the only building dating from classical times that can still be seen in Narbonne. It is a former underground warehouse and dates from the end of the first century BC and was probably the below-ground section of a market. Two of its galleries can be visited.  Stone remains have been put on display in the alcoves that open off the north wing to remind visitors of the splendours of Narbo Martius, the capital of the Narbonne region.

 



 

The humidity underground probably matched the outside: 24 degrees with 94% humidity.  I didn't know it could be this humid without raining.  I feel very "clampy" today, a new word I've invented that melds damp and clammy into one very descriptive word.  Feel free to adopt it.

 

As evening descends on Narbonne, lights come on throughout the city and this is the city skyline view taken from the canal.

 

 

 

***

 

 

We wanted to be closer to home for dinner, so we drove towards Ginestas and stopped in St. Marcel.  We were hungry after such a full and interesting day.

"La Distillerie" is where they used to produce "eau de vie".  It has been decorated like a club you would have found in a big North American city a few decades ago.  Hence why we were serenaded by Frank Sinatra in the background.

 

We were the ONLY couple in the restaurant, so we got fantastic service.  We were told that it was the week when kids went back to school, all the wineries were busy with the vendange, and the season was just too busy for most people to come out on a week-night.  They assured us that if this were the week-end, we'd need reservations to get in.  Another couple eventually arrived and it was a relaxed, wonderful evening.

Lucques olives to start us off while we peruse the menu and make a wine selection.

A little "amuse-bouche" of melon squares marinated in "eau de vie" and honey, as well as radishes stuffed with a small amount of cheese.

I had duck with a pepper sauce served separately in the little shot glass, and a variety of veggies.

Karl ordered the deer and raved about how delicious it was!  He wants to come back to see if they'll offer other game later in the hunting season.

I finished dinner with a cheese cake slice.  There was a tube of spun sugar on the top.

Karl had a sampler slate with nutty puff pastry, artisan ice-cream, baked apple slices on crushed pistachios, and a mocha mousse.

 

 

 

The meal was completed with a grand crème and a little bite of cake. 

 

When we left, Old Blue Eyes was still crooning in the background.  We'd like to come back, but I wonder if they'd agree to change their CD to Charles Aznavour...

 

 

 



This and That

22.09.2013

"Not all wanderers are lost."
J.R.R. Tolkien

 

A short walk around Ginestas reveals all sorts of interesting things, as does a drive in some near-by towns.

Civic workers are fixing roads and tending to public works, home owners are busy making their gardens attractive, and cats find favourite spots in the shade to have a nap.

This gentleman and his colleagues have closed the road to attend to some public work needs.  What with the "Route Barrée" signs and the abundance of one-ways, we quite often end up on very narrow streets, our little Peugeot in danger of getting scraped on tight turns. (So far, so good!)

There are beautiful and ornate doors and railings found quite unexpectedly when rounding a corner.

Karl spies a segue from afar and goes in for a closer look.

"Marguerite, this would be ideal for you to get around!" 

 

 

 

 

These photos were taken at a favourite lunch spot called "Les Trois Cochons" (The Three Pigs), which we've frequented at least 3 or 4 times.  The owner was the very first person we met when we arrived in town and although his place had just closed for the day, he was helpful in telling us where we'd find a meal on a Sunday night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We particularly enjoy his baked Camembert with baguette.  We go back for that alone!

But we also like his "poulet et frites", the lasagna, the canard confit, and pretty much anything that's on the menu du jour.

The church is right around the corner.  St. Vincent is a beautiful ornate church, and the priest gives thoughtful sermons.

Upon seeing this statue, I remembered my own parish of St. Joseph's back in Port Moody.

 

This little girl may look a little grumpy at this point, but she was so cute with her Sunday-best dress, embroidered sweater, polished Mary-Janes and little black purse.  She didn't want to be delayed a moment longer since there had been promises of ice-cream! 

 

As we drive out of Ginestas, we come across my friend the little grey donkey.  I call him and he comes to the fence to say hello.

I really must remember to bring him a carrot or an apple on my next visit.

 

When you can't find gas anywhere, drive to Sallèles and the station is opened longer than elsewhere.  You can't miss the station with this elaborate fountain on the premise.  Either the owner has been to Disney World or has grand-children who love Bashful, Sneezy, Dopey and friends.

 

We had dinner at "La Grange" in Bize one evening and had a delightful dinner, so good that we forgot to take photos.  We do remember that the tapenade was exceptional and were told that they use cane sugar to sweeten it.  Yummy!  But this little kitty stayed close to our table on the terrace and was even more attentive once I gave him a morsel of my "canard".  I guess cats DO like birds...

We watched a show on TV called "A Place in the Sun" which is equivalent to "House Hunters International".  It featured Argeliers as one of the choices for a Brit to buy a holiday home, so we went to see what all the fuss was about. 

 

We must have come at the "sieste" time because we didn't see a soul.   This statue is in Vendange Square, which is a tribute to the vineyards around.  The town centre is ancient, on a steep incline with multiple steps, but we didn't find a very active social life.  We drove on.

 

 

 Capestang is our new favourite little town.  Lin and Jeff live there and they are understandably proud of the place.  We love the InterMarché which carries fresh haddock, a good choice of fresh fruit and veggies, and a bakery with the best baguette and croissants - to say nothing of the pain aux raisins!  Then there's this wonderful café in the centre square, Le Caveau de la Place, which is a real find.  We've been there twice already and plan to go back as often as we can.

 

The first time we were there, I had the Norway salmon in a dill sauce and Karl had the farm trout with almonds.  Both dishes were accompanied by such appetizing sides: rice with sauce, green beans with almonds, leeks, mushrooms and scalloped potatoes.  You'd think that the flavours might clash, but every single bite was delicious!

 

So we drank our wine and struck up a conversation with the owner.  I'm afraid we were the last to leave...

 

Meet Jean-Pierre, the owner.  He's a delight.

 

 

The second time we were there, we both ordered duck in a foie gras and honey sauce.  It was to die for!  Again, the sides were amazing: ratatouille, stuffed mushrooms, scalloped potatoes, mushroom fricassée and poached leek.









We ordered the tiramisu the first time and it alone would have been reason enough to return!  The chef, Frank, makes it himself, does not skimp on the liqueur, and makes portions that can easily be shared but are best eaten individually.  I thought of taking a photo only after every last bite was finished and savoured.  I hope this item never comes off the menu!

 

The last time we were there, we met Alain, a local gentleman who said he had walked a fair distance to come for lunch, but it was worth the effort.  He and his two little white poodles settled in for a relaxing lunch.  We started up an animated conversation with him and enjoyed the banter between him and Jean-Pierre and the other patrons who came and went.  Again, we were the last to leave the restaurant.

 

Press the play button to watch the car wash video.

 

Always there are little jobs that need to get done, like washing the car.  This car wash is neat since the car stays put and the car wash moves - and it all happens outdoors!

 

When we come home after touring about, we often find our own cat (I think he belongs to the next door neighbour) curled up in the shade of the olive tree, having a quiet nap.  He seems to have adopted this place and we see him doing "his rounds" twice a day.

Life goes on during holidays much as it does at home, with market days and laundry days.  Well, maybe not quite the same since there are a lot of planned outings and dinners out.  But sometimes those wandering sort of drives with no specific destination can be surprising and quite delightful.